A diamond engagement ring and designs by Rachel Boston.

Design & Interiors

Bespoke engagement rings: 5 things to know before you start

From sustainable values to timeline and style, jewellery expert and founder of In Detail, Beanie Major, helps you navigate the process of going bespoke
By Beanie Major

More and more couples are gravitating towards bespoke engagement rings in favour of finding something unique to them. But having a clean slate can be a daunting prospect, and people often aren’t sure where to start. Connecting with the right jeweller is key, but before you do, get clear on what you want from your ring.

 

There are five things to consider that will enable you to articulate what you want, explore your options and result with your perfect ring. 

Timeline

 

If you are looking to have a ring made, then it is important to plan. From initial research to delivery of the ring, three to six months prior to proposal date is a good guide. Once you have connected with your jeweller, the design process typically takes two to four weeks, which allows time for additional design meetings and stones to be sourced. Once the design is signed off, it typically takes four to six weeks for the ring to be made. For Christmas proposals, allow a little longer, as the workshops are particularly busy during that time of year. 

Budget

 

Varying from jeweller to jeweller, bespoke typically starts at about £5000 to £7000. If you are lucky enough to have inherited a family heirloom, remodelling a ring starts at about £2000. It’s important to note that there are no rules on how much you should spend on your ring. Dispel myths such as spending three times your monthly salary and decide what you want to spend. Then work closely with your chosen jeweller to work out the best option within your budget set. 

Engagement ring and sketches by George Pragnel.

Style

 

The beauty of a bespoke engagement ring is that you can eschew the trends and focus entirely on what suits your or your loved one’s taste and style – after all, this is something that will be worn every for years to come. If you are a couple searching for the ring together, start by trying things on and focus on shapes, colours and size.  If you are proposing as a surprise, your loved one’s existing jewellery collection will give you some clues. To get a clear idea on aesthetic and design, set up a private Pinterest board and get pinning. You will quickly spot a pattern in the rings you have saved. 

Lifestyle

 

Lifestyle is something that people often overlook, and it’s important because everywhere you go, your ring goes too. The questions here are, when do you want to wear it and how do you want it to make you feel? Do you want to feel comfortable wearing it at work? Glam for social situations? You need to know when you want to wear it and the activities when you should take it off (gardening or working out in the gym). If you are particularly active and want to wear it all the time, you might want to consider something more robust. 

Values

 

Beyond practical and stylistic choices, there are other factors to consider too. What experience do you and your loved one want from the process? Is it access to a little-known designer’s workshop in east London? Do you want to support British craft? Do you want something handmade? If sustainability is high on your list, then consider jewellers who use fair trade or recycled gold and know the provenance of their stones. 

 

Beanie Major is a jewellery expert and founder of In Detail, which has just launched its new service: The Engagement Ring Concierge by In Detail, which specialises in matching couples with the perfect jeweller for their ring; indtl.com/engagement-rings

Engagement ring expert Beanie Major.

Four designers to have on your list:

Bear Brooksbank: If you have inherited a family heirloom but want to update the design, head to Bear Brooksbank. Her background in antique jewellery makes her the perfect choice for breathing new life into your gem.

Rachel Boston: From her east London studio, Rachel Boston creates engagement rings for the modern bride - with salt and pepper diamonds her speciality. Think designs with an understated edge and elegance. 

Pragnell: A family-run business with a heritage as jewellers to the crown, the founder's grandsons are now at the helm. Head down to its Mayfair offices for a glass of champagne and be delighted by its bespoke service and extensive collection of diamond rings.

Hattie Rickards: If you are not one for diamonds and have a preference for yellow gold, Hattie Rickards is the jeweller for you. Operating a bespoke-only business, Hattie loves to explore interesting coloured stones.